TOMA #22: A BMW R1150GS for an expert adventure rider

At the risk of stating the obvious, some bikes are easier to customize than others. Pick a Triumph Bonneville or Harley Sportster, and you’ve got decades of knowledge to plunder on the forums. Choose a BMW R nineT and you’ll find lots of bits that come off without a grinder. And if you’ve got a Yamaha SR in your garage, there are literally thousands of parts available via Japanese online marketplaces. If you want to make your life really difficult, though, a BMW GS is the bike for you. Even the early models are fiendishly complex, with oddball suspension systems...